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Assam

I read a very informative book recently about the history of tea from a British perspective: “Tea, Addiction, Exploitation and Empire” by Roy Moxham (Carroll & Graf, New York, 2003). This book is full of surprising facts. Did you know, for example, that tea was fashionable in Portugal, Holland, and France before it caught on in England? Or that Sri Lanka is a tea producer because of a fungus that ruined their coffee crops? Or that the history of tea is about as nasty as it got in the British Empire?

The book begins with an account of how Moxham, as a young man, landed a job running a tea plantation in present day Malawi in East Africa, and the book ends with an account of his year there. In between, we go predominantly to China, India, and Sri Lanka as Moxham tells the often gruesome tale of the history of tea in the British Empire. Moxham is not the most colorful of writers, but the book is obviously well researched, and once I’d picked it up, I found it hard to put down. I don’t find that the old block prints, photographs, and drawings add much to the book, but I do like the maps in the front of the book that show tea plantation locations in Malawi, China, and India.

It may come as a bit of a surprise that the violent history of tea in the Empire is still playing itself out, with sporadic strikes and violence continuing to this day throughout Sri Lanka and India, especially in Assam. And then there’s the Sri Lankan civil war where the descendents of Tamils imported from India to work the tea plantations still feel discriminated against by the Sinhalese.

Roland at Tea & Treasure    

Low grown teas are rich and malty and stand up well to cream and sugar. High grown teas are lighter and have more nuanced flavors.

Probably the most famous of the low grown teas are the Assam teas from India. They are a major component of many breakfast blends.

The most famous of the high grown teas are the Darjeelings, also from India. These teas have citrus notes, among others, and I personally wouldn’t mask these notes with cream.

To my mind a good breakfast blend should contain both low and high grown tea, though an expensive Darjeeling would be a waste here. The Irish Breakfast blend from Taylors of Harrogate is a blend of Assam and African teas, with the African component most likely coming from the highlands of Kenya.

Single Estate teas are a good way to experience the highs and the lows as the elevation that the tea is grown at is often revealed or can easily be found. One of my personal favorites is Kenilworth Estate in Sri Lanka. At 3,000 feet it’s a medium elevation tea so it has some of the characteristics of both low and high grown tea.

What’s your favorite elevation for tea?

Roland Petrov

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